Thursday, November 19, 2015

Still Hollow Waterfalls, Ozark National Forest, near Freeman Springs, Arkansas

11/18/2015 - Still Hollow Waterfalls

GPS Coordinates:  (Latitude,  Longitude,  Elevation)
  Parking Location #1:  35.65210,  -93.09970,  1498 ft.
  Lucas Falls:  35.65368,  -93.09907,  1439 ft. (named by Bryce Alexander)
  Falls #1:  35.65160,  -93.09581,  1265 ft.
  Falls #2:  35.65145,  -93.09529,  1221 ft.
  Falls #3:  35.65133,  -93.09502,  1197 ft.
  Falls #4:  35.65136,  -93.09496,  1189 ft.
  Falls #5:  35.65125,  -93.09400,  1093 ft.
  Berford Falls:  35.65121,  -93.09399,  1091 ft.
  Vernell Falls:  35.65125.  -93.09381,  1069 ft.
  Sally Lou Falls:  35.64801,  -93.09163,  961 ft.
  Still Hollow Twin Falls:  35.64782,  -93.09160,  961 ft.
  The Sidewalk (Slot):  35.64828,  -93.09065,  974 ft.
  Falls #11:  35.64850,  -93.08751,  1073 ft.
  General Ed Falls:  35.65053,  -93.08112,  1103 ft.
  Wynona Falls:  35.65001,  -93.07834,  1157 ft.
  Wilburn Falls:  35.65027   -93.07432,  1284 ft.
  Houston Falls:  35.65392,  -93.07865,  1307 ft.
  Maggie Lou Falls:  35.65300,  -93.07912,  1259 ft.
  Falls #17:  35.65901,  -93.09338,  1431 ft.
  Donald Falls:  35.65706,  -93.09350,  1321 ft.
  Falls #19:  35.65671,  -93.09330,  1311 ft.
  Falls #20:  35.65488,  -93.09359,  1263 ft.
  Falls #21:  35.65397,  -93.09337,  1200 ft.
  Toil Falls:  35.65309,  -93.09345,  1147 ft.
  Trouble Falls:  35.65297,  -93.09343,  1141 ft.



Pet Friendly:  Dogs off leash may be okay, but there are some areas they may have difficulty getting into and out of.  This is what I would call a difficult bushwhack.  If you think your dog needs to be on a leash, it will probably be okay, but you are in for a long day.  There is a lot of undergrowth and opportunity for entanglement on the knobs between hollows.

Motorcycle Friendly:  Nope.  Unless you find a place to park on Highway 7 and hike down into the valley and back up.  The Silver Point Trail is no place for a motorcycle, and neither is access at the lower end of the hollow near Indian Creek.


Hiking Statistics:  From top to bottom, Still Hollow is over 1200 feet of elevation change.  Dan and I ended up hiking 8.1 miles with a "highest to lowest" elevation change of about 700 feet.  We made several climbs of several hundred feet, as we went into and out of the various hollows in this drainage system.  Most of the hike we did is what I would call difficult bushwhacking conditions.  If you climb over the top of hollows when going from one prong to another, the knobs on top of the mountains are covered with thickets of young cherry and elm, with the briers, vines, and other attendant fauna of what I call "Arkansas jungle".  This part was very difficult bushwhacking in November, and would be a nightmare in spring or summer.  We were hiking for 7 hours and 25 minutes on the track at the bottom of this post.

GPS files (.gpx format) - Maps of the GPS track are at the bottom of this post.
  Still Hollow Waypoints
  Still Hollow GPS track

3/28/2016 - Update with new route to the northeast prong and main creek

Houston Falls - with Dan
Finally, after what seemed like an impossibly long dry spell, we got some rain!  
In our area north of Dover, we got a good rain a little over a week ago that saturated the ground, then the last two days we received about another six inches to really get the creeks going again.   I have been waiting a good three months for the waterfalls to get flowing well, so I jumped at the chance to get out in the woods and do a little waterfall chasing.  There are a few waterfall rich areas I still have not visited, so I was thinking of going to one of those, the Bradley Creek area north of Dover.  I pinged my friend Dan Frew to see if he was interested in a little hike to kick off waterfall season, and it turned out he was off work for the day and also more than ready to get back out hiking.  



Falls #7
Dan was the guy that first explored Bradley Creek and came back with some stunning photos of new waterfalls.  He was perfectly willing to go back as a tour guide, but he had another idea as well.  During the waterfall "off season", he had been out scouting some of the Jeep trails for ways into previously uncharted territory.  One of those areas he wanted to check out was Still Hollow, a fairly large chunk of the Ozarks between Highway 7 and Indian Creek.  This is the Indian Creek between Dover and Pelsor, not a more famous one in the Buffalo National River area.
  
Wilburn Falls
After checking out Still Hollow on the Topo maps, it looked a little formidable.  A large drainage system with lots of creeks running up off the main creek through the valley, very steep slopes, and absolutely no roads going into it.  Excellent!  it's little wonder I have never seen any photos of this area, nor any mention of it anywhere, for that matter.  A search only turned up a Still Hollow in Little Rock, some kind of citified walking trail.  Google Earth and Panoramio had no photos or other tags in Still Hollow.  150 years ago, people lived all over these remote hollows, but in modern times, this looked like one of those places no one ever goes to.  Exactly the kind of place I like to explore for new waterfalls.


Falls #5
Everyone knows how much I like getting out in the wilderness, especially if there is a waterfall factored into the equation.  One of the things I find particularly satisfying is to go into areas that no one else does and finding waterfalls that no one else has documented.  It is always nice to get far away from civilization and take in some of the natural beauty God bestowed on this area, but when you have no idea what you will find and come to a new waterfall, it's a somewhat thrilling experience.  Still Hollow turned out to be one of those great experiences.


Houston Falls
Getting there is fairly simple and straightforward.  From the Dover Supermarket (intersection of Highways 7 and 27), go north on Highway 7 for 24.3 miles.  This will take you just past the small community of Freeman Springs.  Like many communities in northwest Arkansas, don't expect a bunch of houses or a sign or anything.  Turn left (southwest) onto CR-1828, a.k.a. Silver Point Lane or Silver Point Trail.  After 1.3 miles, the county road stops and it really is just a trail, or what we call a Jeep road.  If you don't have a good 4WD vehicle, stop and park here.  Silver Point Trail runs down the spur of the ridge along the north edge of Still Hollow.  We followed it for an additional 0.6 miles until a very large tree across the Jeep road blocked us from going further, then parked at the GPS coordinates listed above.


Falls #4
There was a small creek running from where we parked on Silver Point Trail down into a hollow on one of the prongs of Still Hollow, so we decided it was as good a place to start as any, and followed this creek down to the larger creek in this prong.  A short word on some of the terminology I use all the time;  "hollow" and "valley" could be used interchangeably, but I think of "valleys" as being broader, longer, and less slope.  "Hollow" is the term I use for drainages with creeks running only a mile or so, with steep sides and a relatively steep slope up to the creek itself.  Most hollows in the Ozarks have a number of smaller side creeks feeding into the main creek running the length of the hollow.   On the Topo maps, these tend to look like prongs on a fork, so I refer to these side drainages as "prongs".   Okay, that's it for the hillbilly grammar lesson.  For now.


Falls #1
 Following the small creek down into the first prong, the creek in this hollow did not look all that impressive, running fairly level without so much as a cascade.  That all changed fairly quickly for the better as we followed this first prong downstream toward the main creek.  Only about a quarter mile from our parking spot, we found our first waterfall.  Falls #1 is a beautiful, classic Ozark waterfall flowing over a sandstone ledge.  Just below that, we found two smaller but still "photo worthy" waterfalls.  At the end of this string of waterfalls was Falls #4, a nice cascading type waterfall flowing into a pool.  Of course, the complete anonymity Still Hollow has meant that every waterfall we find will not have a name, so, for now, I'll just label them in the order we came across them.  As these new finds get named, I will come back to this blog post and update it with the names.


Falls #2
I'm not sure where Still Hollow got its name, and I understand the name has changed over the years.  But along with this small prong within Still Hollow, we did pass a location under a shale wall that looked like it had a still at some point.  Although there was nothing in the hollow you could call even a trace road now, there was some signs that a road had been cut into this hollow to the location we thought a still had been set up.  I have actually seen several locations in the Ozarks where stills were set up many years ago, and often by waterfalls for the water source.  Among the ones that have names, Whiskey Still Falls, Bootlegger Falls, and Moonshiner's Falls come to mind.  I often ponder the history of places like this when I come across it, and try to imagine life here over a century ago.


Berford Falls
Continuing downstream, we came to the next waterfall, another nice cascading waterfall with a small vertical drop off at the end.  Immediately below Falls #5 was a taller waterfall, Berford Falls, spilling into the creek from yet another prong coming in from the north.  And this next prong had an even larger waterfall spilling into a cool box canyon that then joined the flow from the creek we had been following downstream.  You can see on the map at the bottom of this post the sequence we found these waterfalls in; we traveled out from the parking location on the southern part of the track, and back along the northern part of the track.

Vernell Falls
Finding a nice set of "twin falls" like this was pretty cool, and at this point, Dan and I felt that seeing these alone had made the hike into Still Hollow worthwhile.  We took photos of each of these twin falls, but although you could see them both from one spot, their orientation and the canyon wall configuration prevented getting a good shot with both waterfalls in it.  The prong with the slot canyon waterfall, Vernell Falls, looked very promising.  We decided, however, to continue downstream first to the main creek running through the middle of Still Hollow and to explore this prong on the way back.


Sally Lou Falls
Hiking downstream on the now combined creek from these two prongs, we went for about a quarter of a mile of a relatively low slope, broken up with the occasional rock jumble.   This is relatively easy, open hiking.  But the lack of ruggedness of the terrain means a dearth of water features, which is what we came to see.  That was soon corrected, however, and slightly upstream of the point this creek emptied into the main Still Hollow Creek, we found Sally Lou Falls.  This waterfall runs over a shelf into a grotto the creek hollowed out of the shale around it.  


Still Hollow Twin Falls
Only a few yards downstream of Sally Lou Falls, the creek we were following flows into Still Hollow Creek, and forms one half of Still Hollow Twin Falls at that point.  Still Hollow Twin Falls is actually two waterfalls.  This is a true twin waterfall, with both the tributary creek we were following and the main Still Hollow Creek having waterfalls where they flow together into a large pool.  These two waterfalls are only four or five feet tall but have quite a span across them.
  
Falls #21
This was as far downstream as we went today.  Still Hollow Creek only had about a 100-foot drop over the next mile downstream, so the odds of finding a nice waterfall on that stretch were not too good.  You can never tell unless you go look, but we had a whole lot of Still Hollow to explore, and only a day to do so.  We decided our time was better spent going with the odds, and started hiking upstream on the main Still Hollow Creek into more rugged and steep territory where the likelihood of finding various water features was better.  There is one large prong downstream, but we decided to either come back to it another day or try to find a way back into the top of it if we had time today.

Approximately a hundred yards upstream of Still Hollow Twin Falls, we found "The Sidewalk", which is more of a chute type, slot canyon cascade than it is a waterfall.   Upstream, the main creek has worn the mountain down to a pretty low slope along the bottom of Still Hollow.  Along the creek, it is pretty easy hiking with a gradual elevation rise and with very little undergrowth. 

Falls #11
About .4 miles upstream from the slot canyon, we did find a small prong on the right (south) side of the creek that had a nice waterfall.  Falls #11 is just a few yards from where its creek flows into Still Hollow Creek, but it is up a pretty steep slope.  It is approximately 50 yards upstream on that prong's creek, but about a hundred foot elevation change up a slippery slope.  This waterfall has a big log right in the middle of it.  Some photographers can't stand that, but I think it adds a bit of realism a kind of wild outdoor appeal to it.

We resumed hiking up Still Hollow Creek, and even this deep into the larger Still Hollow, it had a relatively low slope.  As before, it was also fairly open and devoid of undergrowth, so the hiking was pretty easy at this point.  We stayed above the creek level on the left (north) as high as possible while still being close enough to see if there were any interesting water features.  There is a major prong on that side of the creek that looked promising on the Topo maps.  We started going up that prong to investigate, but the creek in it just did not have nearly the flow that other prongs had.  We decided any waterfalls on that prong wouldn't have enough flow to look good, and continued upstream along Still Hollow Creek.


General Ed Falls
We found General Ed Falls a half mile upstream from the small prong containing Falls #11.  Despite the distance upstream, the two waterfalls are about the same elevation.  That's how low the slope is along the main creek, and how steep it is when you venture up one of the small prongs.  General Ed Falls was only about six feet high, and despite having a log in the middle and two large logs across the top, was still a beautiful water feature.


Wynona Falls
The creek was starting to get a little steeper as we hiked closer to the upper end of the main part of Still Hollow, so the water was moving faster and the chances of finding waterfalls getting better.  Wynona Falls, a beautiful cascading waterfall flowing into a large pool, was another 300 yards upstream.  While not a huge waterfall, it is one of the prettier ones we saw today.  Wynona Falls was just past a large prong to the left (north) that we vowed to come back to "on the way back".  By now, "on the way back" was getting a pretty busy schedule.


Wilburn Falls
Continuing upstream on Still Hollow Creek, we eventually came to Falls # 14.  This was a classic Ozark waterfall, with a number of smaller falls visible at the top, then flowing over a shelf to form the drop of the much larger waterfall.  If you only name one new waterfall in a place like this, I was thinking this would be the one to name Still Hollow Falls.  But of course, we had only found a little over half the waterfalls we would find today so that opinion was subject to change.  Now I'm thinking the next one we found should be Still Hollow Falls.


Houston Falls - with Rick
From Wilburn Falls, we decided to start heading back, as we were far from done exploring just the prongs we had so far passed up.  We started hiking up and to the north, into the prong that we had just passed, to be explored "on the way back".  And look, here it was, on the way back.  Looking at the Topo maps, our best bet for this prong was to hike up toward the top of it, hike down the prong, then over the knob into the next prong to explore on the way back.  We passed by a large waterfall we could hear well below, and continued around below a bluff that we suspected would have a waterfall where the creek ran over it.  Sure enough, we found Houston Falls right where we expected it to be.  Houston Falls was just spectacular.   It is about 30 feet tall, with a little kicker waterfall where it drains off into the creek.  The large rocks in the grotto just add to the beauty of this one.


Maggie Falls
After deliberating whether we should look upstream for another large waterfall or go down to the one we had heard before, we decided to head downstream.  After getting home and putting all the data and tracks into my Topo maps, I'm pretty sure now that we missed another large waterfall higher in this prong.  That will have to be a search for another day.  But getting downstream to the one we had previously passed by, we were certainly not disappointed.  Maggie Falls was another large, classic, waterfall, spilling over layers of shale into a large pool.


Falls #19
A command decision was made at this point to cut over where we were instead of looking more downstream.  In retrospect, I'm not sure that there aren't a large waterfall or two further downstream on this prong as well.  We decided to cut across the knob into the next prong to the west, the one that had very little flow in its creek.  From there, we would try to stay as high as possible and cut over the knob into the last prong to explore, the one that had our Falls #7 at the bottom of it.  Without breaking out your hillbilly dictionary, "knob" refers to the rounded mountain top between two hollows.  At least, that's what I have always thought it to be.


Thickets on mountain tops - one of the most open spots.
One thing we didn't really think of was the potential for undergrowth on the knobs since they were more accessible and were logged years ago.  We hiked into some of the densest hardwood thickets that I have ever seen.  And I have seen a lot of Arkansas jungle in my day.  Along with the thicket of trees, there is also the briers, grape vines, poison ivy, blackberries, and other gotchas that want to just reach out and trip you or smack you in the face.  The entire distance across both knobs was a thick jungle like this.  If I ever do this hike again, I'll certainly stick to the hollows and go all the way up and down the lower sections instead of trying to cut across the knobs.  This was a difficult hike for late fall, and would have been impossibly miserable in late spring or summer.

Finally getting through the
Donald Falls
 thickets and into the last prong that we would explore today, we decided to go all the way up this prong to the upper reaches of its creek.  We found Falls #17 way up in the upper part, where the creek was small enough that it was a nice waterfall, but not of the caliber of others we had found today.  Heading downstream, we found a chute-type waterfall running into a pretty cool little slot canyon.  We have a long tradition when babies are born into the family.  Our niece Elizabeth and her husband Donnie have just given birth to Donald Mount III.  This winding waterfall in the slot canyon was the 18th photo worthy waterfall we found today, and will now be known as Donald Falls in his honor.


Falls #21 - with Rick
(Photo by Dan Frew)
At the mouth of the slot canyon with Donald Falls, Falls #19 cascaded into the creek from a small tributary creek.  This waterfall really made the most use of the water flow it had.  
Downstream, there were a series of waterfalls and cascades that lumped into a collective Falls #20.  That flows a short distance downstream and spills off a rock shelf into Falls #21.  This waterfall had a very deep undercut, making a large shelter cave.  While not a huge waterfall, it was still a decent size, in the 15-foot range.  We thought that surely this was the last waterfall in this prong above the already photographed Falls #7, so we started hiking back downstream, heading up and out of this prong to get over to the next prong that we had parked above.  


Toil Falls
As we were hiking out, we heard the sound of yet another waterfall.  So, of
course, we had to go check it out.  At this point, we were both getting pretty exhausted and it was getting late in the afternoon.  We couldn't stand the thought of passing up on a waterfall we could actually hear below us.  So down we went to check it out.  Quite a bit down into the hollow, as it turned out.  Which meant yet another pretty good climb on the hike out.  But Toil Falls was well worth the extra effort.  It is a large double waterfall, in the 25 to 30-foot range.  It was also almost impossible to find a way down to the base, but we managed to find a steep but doable slope down to it.  



Toil Falls (background) and 
Trouble Falls (foreground)
A "Double Double" (get it?)!
While we were taking some photos of Toil Falls, we noticed the top of another large waterfall immediately after this one, one that we couldn't see from higher on the bluff.  So once again, we had to find our way up and out of the canyon from Toil Falls and find a way down to the base of Trouble Falls.  This one was also well worth the extra effort, and may be the best view of the day.  Trouble Falls was another double waterfall, and you could clearly see both streams from Toil Falls from the base of this one.  And that's why I named them Toil Falls and Trouble Falls; "Double, Double Toil and Trouble."  Get it?  If you don't, search on that phrase and read up on your Shakespeare.
  
Dan - doing what it takes to get the shot
in the slot canyon for Donald Falls
Out of all the hundreds of waterfalls I have seen, I don't think I have ever seen a double set double of waterfalls.  This really put the exclamation point on what was already a spectacular day.  For one more lesson in waterfall terminology, I refer to "double" falls as those that have two waterfalls from the same creek.  Usually, a rock or something at the top splits it into two streams.  This is not to be confused with "twin" falls, which is how I refer to two waterfalls that happen to fall into the same location, but each has their own creek feeding them from different sources.

From our double-double waterfall find, we started the trek back to where we parked,  First a climb up from the base of Trouble Falls, then around and into the prong we started out in today, then the climb upstream in that prong and a final climb up and out of it to where we parked on Silver Point Trail.  

This was a wonderful way to kick off the waterfall season.  Great company on the hike, perfect weather, and some fantastic waterfall finds.  All in an area no one knew anything about, making the process of discovery all the more satisfying.  We logged 8.1 miles on my GPS track, taking seven and a half hours to do it.  That does not seem like all that much distance or time, but terrain like this will wear you down pretty quickly.  By the end of the day, we were exhausted, but couldn't be happier with the way the day went.  

GPS Tracks - Norther Prongs of Still Hollow
Red - November 2015 trip
Blue - Bench Trace Road Route - March 2016 trip
Yellow - Creek Route - March 2015 trip

Friday, August 21, 2015

Sandstone Castle, Richland Wilderness Area, Arkansas Ozarks

8/20/2015 - Sandstone Castle

GPS Coordinates:
  Parking:  35.84146, -92.98413
  Trail Head on NC5080:  35.84189, -92.98472
  Sandstone Castles:  35.81647, -92.97268
  Rock Wall:  35.82412, -92.98407
  Another Rock Wall:  35.82039, -92.97832

Pet friendly: Yes, kind of.  Be aware there are a number of trees down on the trail and other obstacles that might challenge a smaller dog on a leash.  Also, unlike most of my hikes, there is no water available.  Make sure you pack water for your dog as well.

Motorcycle friendly: No.  Getting to the parking area takes about seven miles on rough gravel forest service roads.  It's doable, but you'll be sorry if you take a cruiser or street bike on these roads.

GPS files (maps at bottom of this post):
  GPS track file, trail head to Sandstone Castles (.gpx format)
  Route file (.anr format)

Overlooking Richland Valley from one of the caves at
Sandstone Castle - with Rick and Boomer
It had been quite a while since I had trekked out to the Sandstone Castles; you can see the blog post for that hike here.  I keep thinking I need to make this hike, but always seem to get sidetracked.  Usually, at this time of year, it tends to be so hot and humid that hiking is the furthest thing from my mind.  However, by some odd tweak of nature we had a couple of days of very unseasonably cool weather, but still not enough rain to get the creeks and waterfalls flowing well.  My son Scott had been wanting to get out in the woods and see some Arkansas scenery, so this seemed like the perfect opportunity to go back to Sandstone Castle.  When I called Scott on short notice, he was enthused enough to drop his plans for the day and drive right out.  We got Boomer loaded up in the FJ Cruiser and headed north.


Sandstone Castle - with Scott (or maybe Captain Morgan)
The Sandstone Castles are actually a series of caves cut into the rock of the
bluff at the top of the ridge overlooking Big Devil's Fork and Long Devil's Fork, high above where they join at Twin Falls of Richland.  The caves have 'windows' overlooking the valley below.  Legend has it this place was used by criminals and civil war deserters to hide out from the Law.  I'm betting that strategy was highly successful.  This is one of those places that if you know where it is, it is easy to get to and easy to find.  If you have never been there, it can be quite challenging to find.  


The "Penthouse" Cave - with Rick
To get there, take Highway 7 north and turn onto Highway 123 north at Lurton.  From the 'T' where you can turn left to Hwy 7 or right to Hwy 123, turn right and go 1.5 miles.  Turn right on NC5070 (aka FR-1200, aka CR-36, aka Herbie Hampton Rd, aka Assembly of God Church Road).  Take NC5070 for 6.8 miles, then turn right on NC5080 (aka FR-1205).  Go 1.1 miles on NC5080 and look for where the power lines cross from the right hand (south) side to the left hand (north) side of the road.  The trail head will be near the last power line pole on the right.  On the north side of the road, there is an extended gravel shoulder to park on.  


Trail head - photo from Jan 2014
The trail head GPS coordinates are listed above.  The last time I was here, there was a blue smiley face painted on a tree at this point on the south side of the road.  From the trail head, there is an old trace road that goes uphill.  Turn RIGHT onto it from the road.  i.e. - you will be heading south-west, at first almost paralleling the NC5080 road you just drove in on.  The trail will head up the mountain on this trace road.  There are a fair amount of fallen trees on this first part of the trail, but don't let that discourage you.  As you climb the trace road it will crest the ridgeline, and just over the ridgeline you will make a sharp turn to the left.  The trail here is more discernible and easier to follow, with fewer detours around fallen trees.  Someone had put a sign here to direct you from the ridgeline back to the road on your way back.


The largest cave - with Scott and Boomer
After cresting the ridgeline and turning left, the trail follows more or less just along the crest of Big Middle Ridge, the ridge between Big Devil Fork and Long Devil Fork.  The old trace road is visible in most places and the trail will follow that as it can, with zigs and zags around fallen trees.  The trail is usually visible, but there are a couple of places it gets difficult to see.   As you can see from the GPS track I recorded (at bottom of this post), the trail sticks pretty much to the ridgeline of Big Middle Ridge.  The elevation along this route does not vary a whole lot, but there are some gradual ups and downs.  You pass a couple of rock walls and an old well along the way.  The first of these is hard to miss and is about at the half way point.  These are a good check that you are on the right path.  I included GPS coordinates for these waypoints so you can track your route.


The trail will lead right down the ridgeline to the point where it drops off above Twin Falls.  The  Sandstone Castles are caves in the rock bluff line at this point, and the trail leads to the cliff directly above the caves.  There are a couple of spots you can make your way down to the cave level.   To your left as you look over the cliff is the easiest way down, going between the two largest caves.


Sandstone Castle - with Scott
I had last hiked this route with my wife Bethany in January 2014, and my recollections of the trail were that it was fairly open, an easy hike with little undergrowth.  As a result, I thought (foolishly) that it would be okay to wear shorts.  Well, let's just say things have changed a little in the last year and a half.  The summertime foliage is quite a bit more dense, naturally.  Also, it appears that there is just not enough people making the trip to keep the trail as discernible as it used to be.  We lost the trail three times on the way out and once on the way back.  Fortunately, I had my GPS and I was able to get back on the track I previously recorded easily enough.  Even keeping the actual off-trail bushwhacking to a minimum, the "trail" was overgrown enough with briers and blackberry brambles that we suffered some pretty severe scratching and gouging.  My legs look like a herd of cats used them as scratching posts.  


Even with the unexpected trail difficulties, it was a great day for hiking.  The high for the day was around 70 degrees, something you don't often see in August.  The hike is 2.69 miles each way, by my GPS trip meter.  Sandstone Castle is highly recommended, but you might want to wait for cooler "leaves off" season.  
GPS Track - Sandstone Castles


 3D GPS track for route to Sandstone Castles

Saturday, July 11, 2015

Hidden Falls and Lilly Falls, Richland Wilderness, Arkansas Ozarks

7/10/2015 - Hidden Falls, Lilly Falls, and several unnamed waterfalls

GPS Coordinates: (Latitude, Longitude, Elevation)
  Parking:  35.77353  -92.93273,  1149 ft.
  Falls #1:  35.77646  -92.92977,  1409 ft.
  Lilly Falls:  35.77678  -92.92993,  1456 ft.
  Old trace road:  35.77599  -92.92851,  1510 ft.
  Falls #3:  35.77310  -92.92620,  1516 ft.
  Falls #4:  35.77287  -92.92807,  1450 ft.
  Hidden Falls:  35.77302  -92.92835,  1428 ft.
  Falls #5:  35.77295  -92.92857,  1422 ft.
  

Pet Friendly: Okay for dogs off leash, but there are a few spots that might be a little tough.  At one point where I climbed down through the bluffline, Boomer refused to follow.  He always has better sense about those things than I do.  Dogs on leash would be a nightmare due to the dense undergrowth in some areas.

Motorcycle Friendly: No.  The road is definitely too rough.  Wouldn't take my Harley on it, or any other street bike or cruiser.

Hiking Statistics:  Hidden Falls is only a little over a quarter mile from the road and an elevation gain of about 280 feet.  Boomer and I ended up hiking 1.82 miles and an elevation gain of over 400 feet, with several big climbs, but we visited some other waterfalls definitely worth seeing.  Most of the hike we did is what I would call very difficult bushwhacking conditions, but the part going to Hidden Falls is only moderately difficult. 

GPS files (.gpx format) - Topo map of GPS track is at bottom of post:
   Hidden Falls GPS track
    Falling Water Polyfoss Waypoints
Falls #5 - Hidden Falls in the background

Hidden Falls; you have to admit, even the name has a certain amount of intrigue.  Now, normally I don't do a lot of hiking in mid-July that involves bushwhacking.  The combination of high temperature, high humidity, and strenuous activity is not a good combination.  When you add in dense undergrowth, rock-hopping, slippery slopes, spider webs that always seem to be at face level, and a variety of insect life, difficult bushwhacks are miserable this time of year.  Today, however, I felt the need to give it a shot.  I left Boomer (our German Shepherd) home on my last hike, and ever since then I have had a sullen, pouting 100+ pound dog trying to make me feel guilty.  So I figured a short hike to a new waterfall would be just what he needed.


Falling Water Falls
Hidden Falls is the only waterfall I knew of in the polyfoss area along Falling Water Road that I had never checked out before.  I'm not sure why, since the GPS coordinates that I had for this waterfall showed it to be only about a third of a mile (as the crow flies) from Falling Water Road.  John Moore posted a photo of it on Panoramio that looked pretty nice, so it has been on my waterfall chasing radar for some time.  I could find absolutely nothing on Hidden Falls in my research, other than GPS coordinates from the World Waterfall Database, which is a pretty iffy reference.  As it turned out, I should have retrieved GPS coordinates from John's photo.  

Hidden Falls is one of the many waterfalls in the Falling Water Creek polyfoss area.  There are a bunch of others in this area you can get details on from this Falling Water Creek blog entry.  To get there, go north on Hwy 7 to Pelsor (Sand Gap) and turn east on Hwy 16.  Go nine miles on Hwy 16 and turn left (north) on Upper Falling Water Road.  This is the first left after you pass through the little community of Ben Hur.  It has no road sign, but there is a big sign for the Falling Water Horse Camp.  Go down Falling Water Road, bearing left where roads merge from the right.  You will pass Falling Water Falls on the right, then at 5.3 miles go over the low water bridge.  About 1.6 miles after the bridge, you pass over the creek that Hidden Falls feeds.  There is an area to park right where the creek passes under the road.

Falling Water Falls
Boomer and I had a simple plan.  At least I did; Boomer was just there to have fun.  My plan was to start relatively early, hike up the creek, see Hidden Falls, and go home before it got overly hot and muggy.  What could go wrong?  Well, if you have read many of my previous blog posts, you know there is a whole lot that can and did go wrong.  On the way there, I immediately got distracted.  When we drove past Falling Water Falls, it had really good flow.  For the middle of July, it was amazing flow.  I did not think this area had received that much rain, but apparently it had.  No one else was there, which was also unusual, so we stopped to gawk and snap a few photos.

Views from the bench between drainages
Continuing on down Falling Water Road to the parking location, we found the creek and parked, then headed upstream.  This is where the plan started going a little awry.  Close to the road, there is a juncture of creeks from two drainages, the one with Hidden Falls and a drainage about the same size to the north of it.  By the time I checked my GPS and realized I was on the wrong creek, I was already well upstream on the north creek.  So, we continued on upstream to do a little exploring and see what we could find.  

The capstone layer of sandstone that Keefe Falls and Landslide Falls flow over had to extend in this region as well, so it made sense that Hidden Falls would be on that layer of rock, and that there would probably be a nice waterfall where this creek flowed over it.  If you are unfamiliar with the type of sandstone in the Ozarks, this is not the crumbly red stuff you find out west in Sedona or the badlands.  This sandstone is a very dense rock, harder than granite.  It remains intact while other rock layers of shale or limestone erode away, and makes a nice ledge providing literally hundreds of waterfalls throughout the Ozarks where creeks flow over it.

Falls #1
Sure enough, we came to Falls #1, a beautiful curving cascade about 25 feet high.  Climbing above that, we found Lilly Falls, a classic Ozarks waterfall flowing over that sandstone capstone layer.  In my family, we have a tradition of naming a newly discovered waterfall after a newborn baby in the clan.  Lillian Chubbee was our newest addition, born this summer to Angel and Chata Chubbee.  To get a good shot of Lilly Falls, you have to stand right in the creek at the very top of Falls #1.  That means you need to be very careful to not fall on those slippery flat rocks all the way down that cascade.  There is an animal path behind the falls and up the south bank to a break in the bluff.  I saw both deer and hog tracks, so I assumed they knew the way up and out of the creek bed.

Lilly Falls
From there, I decided to make my way over the ridge and into the drainage containing Hidden Falls, my original destination.  Making our way up the bluff, we soon came to an old trace road.  I mean very old, barely recognizable as such.  We hiked as well as we could down that old roadbed along the bench and down into the drainage containing Hidden Falls.  I say 'as well as we could' because there were a lot of recently downed trees in a swath across this area, victims of a small tornado or sheer winds.  From this bench along the bluffline, you get some spectacular views of Richland Valley below.

Recently Fallen Trees
As the old roadbed came down into the drainage containing Hidden Falls, it rapidly got choked with dense undergrowth.  The GPS coordinates I had indicated Hidden Falls was upstream.  This made no sense, but I headed that way through some of the most dense, impenetrable Arkansas jungle I have ever encountered.  Even Boomer was giving me that look that said, "You want me to go through that stuff?"  But when I'm chasing a specific waterfall, I'm all in.  Tangles of grape vine, briers, poison ivy, sumac, saplings, and ten million spider webs were not going to stop me from finding that waterfall.  

Falls #3
We eventually made our way to where the GPS coordinates said it should be, and found only a cascade with a couple of short waterfalls.  This was definitely not the waterfall John Moore put on Panoramio many years ago.  I marked it as Falls #3, and we pushed on another 50 yards upstream, through equally bad undergrowth.  The drainage was rapidly rising now, as we approached the upper end of it, and there was no sign of a significant waterfall.  Finally giving up, we hiked above the bluff on the south side to get above the dense undergrowth along the creek.

Falls #4
Just below where the old roadbed went down to the creek, we found Falls #4.  This was a pretty little cascade flowing into an emerald pool.  Unfortunately, I underestimated the steepness and slickness of the slope and ended up sliding the last 20 feet into the pool.  It's about three feet deep, by the way.  Climbing back up the slope (I'm not sure why I climbed back up on the same side) was definitely a mistake.

Hidden Falls
Searching downstream, we found Hidden Falls a short distance below the Falls #4.  Without those bogus GPS coordinates, this is where I would have looked to start with.  Our problem now was the fact that the bluffline on this side was very steep.  I did find a way to climb down through it to get to the waterfall, but Boomer refused to go down that route.  He always seems to have a better sense of what is reasonably safe than I do.  I suppose I should listen to him more, but by this time, I was ready to check out Hidden Falls and get out of this gruesome sweat box.  

Falls #5
Hidden Falls is much different now than it was in John's old Panoramio photo.  There is a lot more vegetation, making it very 'hidden' indeed.  There is also a huge tree that has fallen right in the middle of the waterfall.  Today, I could not get a good shot of it; due to the vegetation, the only spot I could get a good view of the entire waterfall had the sun directly behind the top of the falls.  There is a nice little waterfall, Falls #5, just downstream of Hidden Falls.  This would be a much better shot in the winter months, when you should be able to see most of Hidden Falls above Falls #5.  

Leaving Hidden Falls, I had to climb all the way back up the south side to retrieve Boomer.  He was patiently waiting, which means he had already searched quite a way downstream and didn't find a route to his liking.  Good to know, but that meant we had to go back upstream, go down through the jungle, and make our way down the north side of the drainage.  On that side, it was easier going and we were able to come down through the bluffline fairly easily.  

Falls #1
From Hidden Falls back to the parking location, it was relatively easy going.  It is still what I would call a moderately difficult bushwhack, but it felt very easy compared to some of the conditions we encountered at the high end of the drainage.  The route we took today was only 1.82 miles by the time we got back to the FJ, but one of the roughest hikes I have ever done.

If all you do is go upstream to Hidden Falls, this would not be a difficult hike at all.  It is all bushwhacking, but the waterfall is only a little over a quarter mile from the road.  The two nice waterfalls in the drainage just north of Hidden Falls are also worth the hike.  These are also only a little over a quarter mile from the road, and also a moderately difficult bushwhack.   The only part I would avoid, even in wintertime, is the section of creek upstream from Hidden Falls.  It is awful hiking conditions and there just isn't much worth seeing.  

GPS Track - Hidden Falls